Cliveden at Christmas

Find everything I packed for a week in England at Christmastime here.

After a long Christmas weekend in London, we traded the bustle of the city for the rolling Buckinghamshire countryside, driving out to Cliveden House for a few peaceful nights before continuing on to the Cotswolds. I first visited Cliveden six years ago with a friend, but returning at Christmastime with my family felt especially sweet. The house was dressed beautifully for the season, from the grand entrance columns wrapped in lush garlands to the towering Christmas tree in the Great Hall. There was even a Nutcracker experience for children, which made the whole place feel magical through our son’s eyes.

Cliveden House has a layered and fascinating history that spans more than 350 years. Originally built in 1666 as a gift from the Duke of Buckingham to his mistress, the house passed through several prominent owners before entering its most famous chapter in the late 19th century, when it was purchased by the influential Astor family. Under William Waldorf Astor, Cliveden was transformed into one of the grandest political and social houses in England, hosting royalty, artists, and statesmen during the height of Edwardian society.

One of the most striking interiors is the French Dining Room, which feels worlds away from the English countryside. The room was transported piece by piece from the Château de Saran, a French château outside Paris, and reassembled at Cliveden by the Astors in the late 1800s. With its ornate wood paneling, gilded details, and formal symmetry, it reflects the Astors’ love of continental grandeur and their desire to create a house that rivaled the great estates of Europe.

Throughout the 20th century, Cliveden continued to play a quiet but significant role in British history before eventually becoming a hotel, preserving its architectural beauty while opening its doors to a new generation of guests. Today, walking through the house feels like stepping into a living archive, where layers of aristocratic ambition, political intrigue, and family life are still beautifully intact.

And what are you supposed to do at a country house, but relax and enjoy nature? We lingered over long (very good) breakfasts overlooking the parterre, spent quiet afternoons reading by the fire, and took long country walks around the estate bundled up against the winter air. Evenings were cozy and unhurried, with dinners in the house always ending the same way, ordering chocolate mousse to the room to be enjoyed in our pajamas. It was the kind of rhythm that feels increasingly rare and all the more special for it.

Our room was beautiful and generously sized, with plenty of space for our toddler to run around during downtime and windows overlooking the gardens below. Cliveden feels both grand and deeply comfortable, which is part of what makes it such a special place to visit with family. Even if you are not staying overnight, the estate is part of the National Trust and well worth a day trip to explore the grounds. It is a place that feels like a treat in every season, but especially enchanting at Christmastime.

Scroll down for loads of pictures of Cliveden at Christmastime, and links to everything I wore! You can find my full packing list for a week in England at Christmas here.