Shortly after we first arrived in Buenos Aires, we started getting a lot of recommendations for Le Tigre, a vacation town originally known for their tigers. Both tourists and locals alike seemed to love it, so we decided to make a weekend of it.
We stayed nearby in San Isidro at the beautiful Hotel Del Casco, a neoclassical palazzo-style mansion that had been converted into an elegant bed and breakfast. I originally discovered the hotel on Pinterest, when a photo of their beautiful lobby stopped me in my tracks. The tile floor, hanging vines, and leggy columns holding up a delicate stained glass ceiling were breathtaking. Tucked away in a romantic neighborhood north of Buenos Aires, it was the perfect place to unwind after hosting friends for a week. We loved the elegant rooms filled with antiques, and the spacious front porch that was a comfortable perch whether reading or waiting for our taxi to arrive.
On our first full day we enjoyed breakfast on the terrace, overlooking the pool and ivy-covered staircase. The espresso was uncommonly good and we sorted out our plans for the day. I was a rower in college, and Tigre is known for their rowing clubs. So, we were excited to rent a beautiful wooden boat and explore the many tributaries around the Tigre delta. After a short cab ride, we landed in Tigre in front of the Buenos Aires Rowing club, a beautiful gothic hall plucked from Yale – or perhaps Harry Potter. David, in his 2nd grade Spanish, tried to talk our way inside but to no avail. So we set off to find Club de Regatta La Marina, a similarly beautiful building that you might have seen on my Instagram here. We rented a scull (one person crew shell) and after a wobbly start headed into a tributary, map in hand, in search of lunch.
We loved sliding past the little bungalows that dotted the banks of the rivers, watching families lounge in the sun and ready their own boats for a row. It was an unexpected test of our communications abilities as I rowed and David played coxswain, navigating through narrow channels and wider rivers with heavy traffic. (In crew shells, the rower faces backwards and cannot see where the boat is headed.) There were a few harrowing moments when a large ferry was bearing down on us and I couldn’t row hard or fast enough. We’re typically on the adventurous side, but after two hours hunting for a restaurant we decided lunch wasn’t meant to be and turned back for the boathouse. Despite our hunger for lunch it was a unique way to experience this beautiful and historic place.
We returned to the refuge of Hotel Del Casco and got ready for dinner with friends. Lupita, which has several locations throughout Buenos Aires, serves very good Mexican food and is a short cab ride away. The next day we stayed a little closer to home, walking through the leafy neighborhoods around the hotel, admiring the brightly colored mansions that circle San Isidro Cathedral. The town is a fascinating mix of private estates (walk along Belgrano and Beccar Varela streets for lots of pink and green homes) and bohemian art enclaves (along Primera Junta). I was excited to discover Iolo in time to have a healthy lunch at their charming cafe near the center of town. Back at the hotel we lingered by the pool, reading and relishing our quiet little oasis.
Thank you to Hotel Del Casco for your gracious hospitality!
Photos by Stacie and David Flinner for stacieflinner.com