A long weekend in Ischia, Italy
Summering on the Mediterranean has been an American fantasy since the golden age of travel. Early romantics such as F. Scott Fitzgerald and Hemmingway spun fabulous tales inspired by their European adventures and old Hollywood A-listers flocked to the French Riviera and Almafi Coast after World War II. Many destinations have become so popular you’ll hear as much English as you will Italian, except on Ischia. This beautiful island sitting at the edge of the Bay of Naples still holds that old-world, “undiscovered” charm.
Last month, David and I spent 8 days on Italy’s Amalfi Coast starting with Ischia and then hopping between Capri and Positano. We flew into Naples, then stopped by 50 Kalo to pick up a traditional Neapolitan pizza before catching our ferry to Ischia. Much like our familiar jaunts to Nantucket, the ferry ride was an easy scenic transition to the island that I highly recommend as a means of travel along the coast (even for mainland destinations).
Ischia, an island with a history stretching back to the ancient Romans, has long been a destination for those seeking a low-key island escape. Its therapeutic thermal spas, invigorating mineral waters, and verdant landscapes create a retreat that embodies “dolce far niente”.
A favorite destination for Italians, the island came on our radar after the reopening of one very special hotel, Mezzatorre. The newest sister property to famed Il Pelicano, the secluded hotel hugs the sea, overlooking an aquamarine bay dotted with yachts. Centered on a 16th century watchtower, most villas are scattered throughout the hillside while the pool area and bay loungers offer inviting corners to unwind and absorb the Mediterranean ambiance.
For all the glamour, the team at Mezzatorre was especially memorable. Italians are known for their hospitality, but the staff here exuded pure joy at making their guests feel welcome and comfortable. The food was spectacular, and a slew of Italy’s top movie stars were staying there at the same time, something we discovered when our taxi driver pulled up to the gate then hopped out to take a picture with “The most famous man in Italy!” (Unfortunately I cannot remember his name!) We spent our days taking in the tranquil sea views, swimming in the sparkling waters, and spending evenings at the Mezzatorre bar, known for its excellent cocktails. I was especially taken with Mezzatorre’s styling of their breakfast room done up entirely in Pierre Frey fabrics – a favorite of mine!
We only had 2 full days on the island and wished we had booked for at least one more night as there are many charming towns to explore. We especially loved Giardino Eden for lunch. We were the only Americans in a very chic crowd of young Italians, and the food was gorgeous - fresh from the sea. Panoramic views of Castello Aragonese d’Ischia are available from two tables that jut out over their beach club so be sure to ask for one when you make your booking. The castle, with its stone passages and panoramic terraces, is situated on a smaller island just off Ischia and now houses art galleries, a beautiful chapel, and a mountaintop cafe. It’s worth a visit for the views and perfect for an after-lunch walk to burn off a big pasta lunch. Near the port, we loved window shopping along Corso Vittoria Colonnia, grabbing coffee at Calise, and gelato and negronis at La Dolce Sosta. If you find the bustle of neighboring Capri overwhelming, this is the island for you!
Outfit details:
J.Crew Crochet Dress (only $148 and so amazing I got in 2 colors!)
Sarah Flint Flat Sandal c/o (blue sold out, current colors here)
Outfit details:
Saint Laurent Flats (size up 1/2 size)
Mark Cross Madeline 21 bag (old, current colors here)
Max Mara White Sunglasses (old, similar here)
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