Skiing in St. Moritz

Find links to everything I packed for a week of skiing in the Alps here!

Saint Moritz had been on our list for years, but visiting over the holidays made it feel especially meaningful. My husband and I were excited to experience it for the first time knowing that my grandparents honeymooned here nearly 80 years ago, during the holiday season as well. Being in the same place, at the same time of year, so many decades later felt incredibly special. With twinkling lights around town, a celebratory energy everywhere you turned, and snow-covered peaks glowing in the winter sun, Saint Moritz felt especially festive and full of life.

We spent a full week here over the holidays, skiing most days, lingering over long lunches, and settling into the rhythm that makes Saint Moritz such a beloved winter destination for generations of families.

The Kulm Hotel is everything you imagine a grand alpine hotel should be. Our room overlooked the frozen lake and had a small balcony that became a favorite spot for morning coffee. Even in winter, the sun was so warm that we could comfortably sit outside bundled up, watching the light slowly move across the mountains.

The lobby is truly the heart of the hotel. After skiing, everyone gathers here, whether for a drink by the fireplace or to claim one of the coveted window tables overlooking the lake. Afternoon tea is served daily and looked absolutely beautiful, though we never quite managed to time it right during our stay.

Breakfast each morning was elaborate. Guests drifted down in cozy cashmere sets or fully dressed for a day on the slopes, and I loved seeing so many intergenerational families traveling together, gathered around huge tables. It felt very much in the spirit of the holidays.

What completely sold me on the Kulm, though, was the ski setup. On the ground floor there’s a beautiful ski lounge where you’re fitted with boots, skis, and helmets while sipping thick, Swiss hot chocolate. At the end of the day, you simply hand everything back, collect your shoes, and your gear is stored and ready for the next morning. A shuttle runs regularly to the funicular, and we never waited more than a few minutes. It made skiing feel effortless and genuinely enjoyable. The hotel is also very family-friendly without feeling geared only toward families, and it houses several excellent restaurants, which is especially helpful during the busy holiday season.

Making dinner reservations in Saint Moritz is harder than almost anywhere we’ve traveled, particularly over the holidays, when tables book far in advance. That said, the concierge can sometimes work a little magic if you ask early and stay flexible.

Kulm Country Club, just a one-minute walk from the hotel, quickly became our favorite spot. The atmosphere feels fresh and relaxed, and the gnocchi with crispy prosciutto was especially memorable, one of those dishes you find yourself thinking about long after the trip.

Chesa Veglia is part of Badrutt's Palace and one of the most atmospheric dining spots in town, housing several restaurants inside a former farmhouse with beautiful traditional architecture. Reservations are notoriously difficult, but we had great luck asking our concierge to call at 11am to check for cancellations and managed to secure a table at Patrizia Steuben for traditional fare that same evening.

For something simpler and comforting after a long day outside, Kulm Pizzeria is excellent. The pizza and pasta are genuinely fantastic, served in a cozy alpine space that feels unfussy and welcoming. Also, if you want fondue in town, Stuvetta Moritz has a delicious one, served up oon a beautiful space and one of the easier spots to make a reservation.

Lunch on the mountain is a serious affair in Saint Moritz, and many days revolve around where you’ll stop and how long you’ll linger.

Paradiso is one of the most iconic après-ski scenes in town. On a sunny day, its terraces feel straight out of a Slim Aarons photograph. We ordered the fondue, which did not disappoint, and the southern exposure had us peeling off layers as the afternoon went on. The upper deck is know for it's dance parties as the afternoon wears on. The people watching here was really fun, both for the glamorous skiiers taking a break from the slopes, and those that dressed up in heels (!) ...and clearly didn't realize you had to hike half a mile through the snow to get there if you weren't skiing.

Restaurant Chasellas is another favorite on the mountain and feels especially classic. Owned by and overlooking Suvretta House, it has a timeless, old-world alpine charm. It’s the kind of place that works just as well for a long, leisurely lunch as it does for a late afternoon coffee, when the sun is low and the pace of the day begins to slow. The atmosphere relaxed yet refined, and it’s an easy spot to linger a little longer before heading back down.

Trutz is a true institution in the Corviglia ski area and a must for lunch on the mountain. Its sun-drenched terrace is legendary, with some of the most beautiful views across the Upper Engadine. Whether you settle in for a long, leisurely lunch or simply pause to take in the view, Trutz captures the rustic alpine glamour that Saint Moritz does so well.

Some of our lunches ran late and long, so on those evenings we simply ordered a little room service when we returned to the hotel and called it a night.

Saint Moritz is known for its luxury shopping, and the main streets are lined with Prada, Bottega Veneta, and Hermès, alongside ski brands like Bogner and Moncler. While it’s undeniably glamorous, I did wish there were more independent Swiss boutiques. I always love bringing home souvenirs that feel deeply tied to a place. That said, we made more than one stop at Läderach for chocolate, and it quickly became our go-to for treats to enjoy back in our room.

One of the most charming parts of traveling to Saint Moritz is the journey itself. The beautifully restored Gourmino dining car from the 1930s runs on the Rhätische Bahn between Chur and Saint Moritz and serves a simple menu. You only need your regular ticket and can walk in for a coffee, snack, or full meal. While it’s far simpler than the Orient Express, it still feels like a step back into the golden age of travel and set the tone perfectly for the week ahead.

It’s worth noting that Saint Moritz is very much a luxury ski destination, and prices reflect that, especially over the holidays. The glamour, history, and setting are undeniably special, but it’s not the only place to experience chic alpine skiing in Europe. If you’re looking for a similarly beautiful and stylish ski town with a slightly more approachable price point, Lech am Arlberg is a wonderful alternative that still delivers plenty of alpine charm and elegance.

A holiday week in Saint Moritz feels equal parts glamorous and nostalgic. Being there during the festive season, knowing it was once part of my grandparents’ love story so many years ago, made the experience all the more meaningful. I hope we'll return again, perhaps for Snow Polo!

Find links to everything I packed for a week of skiing in the Alps here!